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NEW

1865 Vintage Corduroy Cap
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52,95 €
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129,00 €
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123,95 €
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103,95 €
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92,95 €
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123,95 €
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415,95 €
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165,95 €
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71,95 €

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Stetson – a hat manufacturer with cult status

Overview of topics

The story of Stetson
How is a classic Stetson hat made?
A glimpse into the range of models

The story of Stetson

It’s a genuine part of American history, intertwined with the spirit of the Old West: it all started in the years between 1860 and 1865; at the time, John B. Stetson was in Colorado panning for gold. When he found himself struggling with weather that would change from sun to rain in the blink of an eye, he called upon the trade he had learned from his father, crafting himself a hat made of heavy, felted beaver fur to protect himself from the elements. The hat featured not only this water-resistant material but also a wide brim and high crown, which created a 'bubble' of insulating air at the head and could even be used to transport water in a pinch (when not being worn, of course). Although his peers initially mocked him, they soon realised the value of the useful multipurpose hat over the course of the journey. Once he’d reached his destination, Stetson was even able to sell the hat to a travelling cowboy for a piece of gold worth five dollars.

The invention of the cowboy hat

When he went back east in 1865, Stetson borrowed 100 dollars from his sister and opened his own small millinery shop in Philadelphia, with just a few tools and beaver pelts at his disposal. Soon enough, his early 'Western' hats were being manufactured under the name 'Boss of the Plains’. Thus, the first-ever cowboy hat was born out of Stetson’s experiences in Colorado:

How a 'Boss of the Plains’ hat is constructed

The flat, seven-inch brim acts as a kind of rain gutter and is symmetrical on all sides.
Crown with straight-falling sides and rounded corners.
Fine undercoat of beaver fur makes the felt hat durable, waterproof and yet lightweight.
A sweatband protects the inside and offers increased wearing comfort.

Image of a man giving a Stetson hat filled with water to his horse

What happened next for John B. Stetson?

Despite the high prices charged for it, the Boss of the Plains became a bestseller due to its outstandingly high quality. After 1886, Stetson’s hat factory was the biggest in the world and revolutionised the hat market with its unprecedented mass production. Hats were customised by their owners. For example, the popular ‘cattleman’ look (with three indents on the crown) was created when people began rolling and bending the brims of their hats; over time, it even became possible to identify members of subcultures by the shape of their hats. John B. Stetson died a wealthy man in 1906. But the story of the brand was far from over …

J. Howell Cummings took over control of the company. Thanks to great marketing strategies, Stetson hats were soon worn by lots of well-known celebrities, and eventually gained worldwide recognition value thanks to the Hollywood icons who wore them – even though the stars of Western movies didn’t always wear genuine Stetsons but rather reproductions crafted by costume designers. When film critics meant 'cowboy hat', they just wrote 'Stetson’: the brand was synonymous with the product.

In the 1970s, an era known best for the rebellion seen in the younger generation, the Stetson experienced a revival in the fashion world and was reinvented as a statement piece communicating individual style. These hats became more colourful and outlandish, and they were decorated with striking feathers. In the 1980s, popular adventure films made the classic fedora into the ultimate trendy accessory. The pairing of authentic American style with excellent materials is no longer just popular in the country and rodeo scene alone. Stetson now produces a wide range of other top-quality products: everything from baseball, trucker and army caps to baker’s boy, docker’s caps and Gatsby caps, not to mention beanies, aviator caps, straw hats, rain hats and even matching winter accessories like scarves and gloves.

How is a classic Stetson hat made?

A real Stetson may cost over 1,000 dollars, but what makes it so expensive? Every Stetson hat is a perfectly tailored and unique piece crafted by hand in a laborious process. Selected models are still produced today in Garland (Texas) by Hatco, Inc.

1. Animal furs are sorted

As a general rule: the more beaver fur is used, the better and more expensive the hat will be later on. The average mixture is 80% rabbit fur and 20% beaver fur.

2. Checking the quality of the fur

Shorter hair ultimately means a stiffer hat. About 20% of the animal hairs are sorted out by a blower, while the rest is checked again afterwards.

3. Producing the domed shape

A vacuum cleaner draws the fur fibres onto a dome on which a kind of ‘carpet’ is formed through centrifugal force. The dome is then wrapped in a damp jute cloth and bathed in water heated to 90 degrees so that the fibres contract to form a thin and easily tearable layer. No tears must occur during the subsequent removal of the fabric.

4. Wet felting/rolling

Hot water pulls the hair fibres of the hat-in-progress closer together, while during rolling they become more and more embedded into each other. After about 80 cycles, the hat-in-progress has shrunk to about 70% of its original size – the perfect size to be shaped into a cowboy hat..

5. Dye bath

Until then, however, the fabrics continue to be immersed for two and a half hours in a hot, 80-degree dye bath, often in one of the three main colours: black, beige or grey. After drying, an initial attempt at the hat shape is produced using a hat press.

6. 'Pouncing’

The still-rough head parts are then rubbed off, which makes the felt more velvety. Hats-in-progress with a high proportion of fine beaver fur can be processed for the longest amount of time. Superfluous felt particles are burned off.

7. Moulding a hat

There is a separate hat block for each colour and size; it determines the basic shape of the hat. Hot steam and pressure is applied to the hat and then the hat is stretched over the block to a certain width. The indentations at the head as well as the curved brim are formed with aluminium moulds. The result, after three days, is a genuine Stetson!

Nowadays, far more models are produced than just the classic Western hats: caps such as a patchwork-designed Newsboy caps or a Hatteras peaked cap for the summer naturally require completely different materials, which in turn require different manufacturing processes. Some examples of materials are linen, leather, corduroy and cashmere.

Our tip for all year round: VitaFelt

More than just a casual hat – the miracle of fine new wool! The VitaFelt hats from the Stetson collection are developed especially for the needs of travellers. They regulate temperature, are resistant to water and dirt, and could therefore be considered the ideal accessory no matter the weather. They are also rollable, meaning you can easily store them in your luggage without wrinkling. Whether spring, summer, autumn or freezing winter, VitaFelt can be worn all year round. The term does not refer to a special hat model but rather to a patented functional wool felt from which a wide variety of hat shapes are made: take a look through our range and discover your new favourite hunting, hiking and outdoor headgear in our high-quality collection today.

A glimpse into the range of models

Over its many decades of existence, Stetson has produced a large number of models in various colours and shapes. We’d love to give you a brief overview of this cult-favourite US label’s bestsellers and classics:

Peaked caps

The most popular and bestselling non-hat product is called Hatteras, a rather flat cap with a beret-like, eight-piece top that protrudes slightly above the practical peak. Other well-loved types of flat caps from Stetson are the Kent model (optionally available with earflaps), the six-panel Brooklin and the more sporty versions Madison and Texas.

Caps

The timeless Plano baseball cap is a top seller; new designs, materials and unusual patterns for this cap are routinely released. In addition, the monochrome and unstructured Rector baseball cap is a favourite for the summer. Recently, trucker caps, originally inspired by the caps worn by American truckers, have also been enjoying growing popularity.

Hats

There is a huge variety of Stetson hats available, and some of them cannot be classified under a specific category. The absolute classics in our range are the Odenton Pork Pie, the Elkader Trilby and the Penn as a fedora or Bogart hat. The Rutherford, Radcliff, Rantoul, Newark and Vermont travellers are also particularly popular for outdoor activities. If you want to opt for an extremely elegant look, the Virgi is also a very good choice.

What’s the right Stetson for me?

Understandably, this decision can be difficult given the huge selection: do you prefer a knitted or felt hat – or what about a fur cup with matching leather gloves? Unfortunately, it’s impossible for us to make a general statement without knowing what you prefer, as it often comes down to a question of personal style. But where we can help you is in determining the size: in our shop, you can find a starter guide including a size chart for women, men and children as well.

We hope you have fun browsing the range of Stetson, a traditional American brand!!

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